As featured in Unfolded Magazine Issue 06
We speak to Ali Mapletoft, the designer behind Age of Reason
Scarves, an accessories label in the UK that offers wearable luxury
with a playful punk twist
Can you tell me a bit about yourself and what made you decide on
becoming a designer?
I grew up in a passionately creative family so I don' t think there
was ever any question of me not doing some sort of design one day.
I also know how hard it is to survive the creative industries,
which might have put me off, but seeing your own intentions
translated into material things is very rewarding.
What is a 'scarf' to you?
A scarf is versatile shape, which can transform your appearance
instantly. It should be striking, beautiful and exciting whether it
is subtle or loud. And if you live in Britain, it's nice to have a
scarf that's made in Britain.
What is the importance of Silk as your main fabric, is it its
versatility of uses, or something personal?
Silk just feels beautiful against the skin. It has a luminosity
which makes it feel like precious treasure. It also regulates body
temperature really effectively, so you never feel too hot or cold
wearing it.
The use of pastel shades with cheeky imagery makes for an
interesting, if hidden statement. Could you describe the design
process and influences behind your choices?
For AW11 I pictured a demure lady with a dirty secret or a double
life as a punk. The bondage doll scarves are an expression of that
personality. They can be styled to conceal or reveal
the bondage doll motif. This season, SS12, we are using
stronger colours but the base is always soft and flattering. We've
continued with the collectible bondage dolls in neons, turquoises
and rich berry shades on a silvery grey background.
Could you describe your most recent collections?
The main collection, which is separate to the bondage dolls, is
inspired by two seafaring novels; Gulliver's Travels and The Potato
Factory. The legend "I Will never Surrender" is the motto of Potato
factory antihero Ikey Soloman. As a defiant slogan, it sums up the
attitude of the season. We have used subtle union jacks again in
SS12 and will continue to use them through the permanent
collection.
Describe the design process?
Simple things like drawing very early in the morning and writing
ideas down by hand help my design process. I draw in pen and ink on
watercolour paper. I usually start somewhere like the British
Museum or National Gallery. I take inspiration from books, films
and music. I avoid television, magazines and other peoples fashion
design as a source of inspiration. If designers are too
introspective fashion will eat itself and become too homogenised.
In the UK we have an immense fashion heritage and we can't let
the side down.
Where are your materials sourced?
I source everything in the UK, even our imported silk is bought
from a British company.
Keeping our immediate supply chain local is one of our principle
philosophies.
To you, fashion is....?
Fashion is a creative expression of yourself. For me it should have
humour, be interesting and enjoyable. I'd much rather look
interesting than cute.
To you Art is...?
Art is everything.. Without it we'd have no civilisation; we'd be
crawling around in the mud.
Where are you based and have you drawn on the local environment for
imagery and ideas?
We're based in Brighton. The beach is wild and windy,which is
inspiring. You can just imagine the old sailing ships on the
horizon. Brightonions tend to be quite non conformist, which I
like.
Do you have any favourite designers?
I wouldn't say I had any favourites as such but I admire Emma Cook
and Jonathan Saunders. Earl of Bedlam and A Child of The Jago do
some great menswear.
What is the hardest part about making scarves?
Screening the advice you get at first can be hard. Having said
that, I did get some excellent advice from a small group of people
including Jonathan Saunders and Susie Lau very early on, which I am
grateful for.
And what is the best part?
The best thing is seeing the scarves go out into the world and take
on a life as part of someone else's look. Seeing hard work pay off
is very satisfying.
What have been the biggest challenges you have faced so far?
Finding the right manufacturer in the UK can be a challenge because
it's more expensive to do here. But ultimately, the quality is so
good in Britain, that it pays off. Getting other people to work to
my insane schedules is challenging. I just keep on cracking that
whip.
www.age-of-reason-studios.com
Photographs by Capture Factory
Photographer: Rory T Seddon
Stylist: Lydia T Seddon
Interview by Nardip Singh