As featured in Unfolded Magazine Issue 10
The story of Ahilya Bai Holkar, an eighteenth century queen of the
Malwa kingdom provides the namesake for ahilya, a fashion label
that fuses ancient artisan weaving traditions with contemporary
technical aesthetics. Founded by designer Manuela Moollan, she
tells us that she "started ahilya because first I fell in love with
a product, which is hundreds of years old: hand spun and hand woven
cashmere that is pure genuine "pashmina". I found out that it was
very hard to find original cashmere in its finest form in Europe
because very few weavers use the traditional materials to make them
nowadays. I also set up ahilya because I was seduced by the region
of Kashmir, a beautiful land with a complex history and my interest
in the people behind this inspiring ancient weaving tradition."
Moollan tells us her personal style is very Parisian and
through "our exploration of new techniques and embellishments on
scarves and our research, ahilya became a fashion label following
seasons, and I incidentally started to “design” collections."
Moollan describes fashion as "Insatiable inspiration to create and
short-lived appetite to wear clothes," and her latest SS13 Scarf
collection is all about "California and Palm Spring, colours of
Azurine blue, Calypso pink and Aqua green set into simplified laces
of mesh and polka dots to give a very geometric feel for mainline."
For the couture range, "the contrasts are softer. Our key
piece is a palm tree lace and detailed sharp white floral
embroidery."
The label has diverged into capes, born from clients wanting
more. "They loved the ahilya luxury fibres mixed with beautiful
embellishments. We thought that capes could complement the range
well, as they are versatile like scarves and as elegant. The same
philosophy goes behind the design of our capes which are made with
luxurious and fine merino wool."
She has come far from the Easter Egg hunts of her childhood she
fondly remembers as a child, but having found the label "it has not
been black and white", she says "I am sure other fashion designers
will agree – that production is usually the most frustrating part
of the job as it is a part where one has the least control."
However the "best experiences are success in seducing new people
with our products and seeing the collection worn and sold in many
different places."
In describing a typical design process for a collection,
Moollan tells us "we experiment with new techniques in the
weave or the embellishment and shapes. Looking at different weights
of woven fibres, we develop refined embellishments to complement
the scarf. All of our scarves are functional, i.e. they are
extremely soft to the skin, very fine but also very warm – lighter
than silk scarves but much warmer and breathable. All of our work
on embellishment ensures that the softness, light weight and
warmth are preserved."
With a passion for new cultures and an active interest in how
communities and people keep their traditions in a changing world,
for ahilya couture, most of the scarves are hand-spun and
hand-woven in Kashmir. For the main line, all scarves, capes and
draped shapes are made in Italy using specially selected wool from
New Zealand and Australia. Moollan tells us that "it is important
that a label is aware of the use and waste of resources as well as
the social impact and tries to address issues at its level as much
as possible. It is difficult to be ethical on all fronts especially
when big players are those who can bring out change. At our level,
our most powerful tool is to communicate on our values and also to
educate people on our luxury fibres."
In 2010, ahilya won the Ethical Fashion Forum’s Innovation Award
which rewards innovation in design and social and environmental
sustainability. ahilya is also a member of the Centre of
Sustainable Fashion at London College of Fashion and is available
from the shop at the Dorchester, Avenue 32, and from their own
e-shop www.ahilya.com. They are also available from One and Only
Resorts Worldwide. A capsule cashmere and merino knitwear range
will launch this Autumn, transposing embellishments onto a selected
range of jumpers and tops.
www.ahilya.com
Interview by Nardip Singh