"The purest form of art evokes ones emotion" says fashion designer
Akira Isogawa, in describing the ideology behind his brand. Wearers
should be "moved by what they wear" and "I try to express timeless
beauty and femininity that emanates from your inner soul." The
colour pattern, in his latest collection, SS13, is quite bold and
vibrant, inspired by Australia's light and unique fauna, but also
"sourcing inspiration and developing textiles in Kyoto, Japan or
Ubud, Indonesia for example." Akira tells us he tries "to
incorporate some traditional Japanese techniques that are applied
in textile design. Shibori is one example I have been using for my
collections and has become somewhat of a signature. Shibori is a
hand dyed technique that originated in Japan."
"A garment can transcend,
giving it a soul."
It’s the quality of the hand dyed craftsmanship that really sets
the Akira brand apart from other RTW labels, as is the importance
Akira places on "paying respect to the environment in which we
live. It is our responsibility to let the next generation survive.
I visit manufacturers and oversee the process and methods of
production." Akira is renowned for his innovative manipulation of
fabric, which we see in the hand painted silks of SS13, fuchsia
pinks, burnt oranges and deep reds evoking images of vintage
kimonos and hand crafted embellishments and embroidery adding
exquisite depth and texture.
"Distressing fabrics and
alchemically treating them,
gives the feeling of already
‘being loved’, thus evoking
emotion. Even one-off fabrics
found in flea markets can be
given new life."
Whilst enjoying some Padang dishes in Indonesia, which originated
from Sumatra Island, Akira tells us he "really likes" and has
"never got tired of Japanese food. Salmon Sashimi with Wasabi and
soy is always refreshing." He recently saw a film shot in Paris
called "Before Sunset," whilst in France and "all of the dialogue
is something you could relate to, this unassuming film has stayed
in my mind for quite some time." Travelling, meeting people and
films are some of the sources of inspiration behind his work which
have even led him to create hand woven designer rugs. Isogawa’s
international status rose in 1998, when he started showing his
collections in Paris and perhaps the film "Before Sunset" evoked
strong memories of his first few visits there.
"I translate fabrics into soft
and romantic silhouettes,
using natural fabrics like
silks and cottons, which are
kind to the skin."
Born and raised in Japan, he has held an appreciation for fashion
from a young age. Venturing to Australia fifteen years ago, saw the
passion turn into a serious career and he opened a store in the
early 90's. He is an avid collector of vintage fabrics and kimonos
and there are many artists Akira favours and admires, "If I may
choose one, then Christiane Lehman is one of the artists I have
been working with for my collections. I met her when I arrived in
Australia. Her view of the world inspires me." Working with small
workshops, the approach is very much hands on and "I personally
relate to all who work within the place. It appears these small
artisan workshops have a much better understanding of our needs,
especially creatively."
"Richly embellished fabrics echo
Eastern influences, and I have
great respect for their traditions.
Inspiration can be found from
the past – re-using vintage
textiles and sometimes creating
replicas of them, incorporated
with specific craftsmanship."
There is a fine line between fashion and art, RTW and Couture.
Akira tells us "when you design RTW, you have to consider that all
the styles will be manufactured. It ought to perform and function.
Couture collections to me are more like creating an art piece.
There is a sense of a "One off" quality to couture. Designing
ballet costumes for the Australian Ballet was a fulfilling
experience, creatively. It was like designing couture pieces
endlessly. It inspired my own RTW collections."
"I see craftsmanship as an
implement with which to realise
one’s vision. Past, present and
future; that slogan continues in
almost everything around which
my work evolves."
Akira studied fashion design at the Sydney Institute of Technology
and is excited about how "fashion changes and never stays the same.
The constant evolution of styles makes it exciting," and his own
approach has evolved and is evolving. "I work intuitively and it is
really an organic process. Now, I work with fewer styles in my
collections and spend more time in the development of individual
styles." He has won a string of awards, exhibited at Sydney's
Museum of Contemporary Art, designed costumes for the Australian
Chamber Orchestra and Sydney Dance Company, whilst continuing to
show at Paris and Australian fashion weeks. He is currently working
on a new collection, which will launch next March. To see more of
his work and design philosophy, visit:
www.akira.com.au
Interview by Nardip Singh
Images provided by
M + M Management
Copyright © Akira