To the soundtrack of 90's garage at Dalston Superstore, I
interview Jessica Au, the young designer behind JAU LABEL, a new
East London based line that launched last year. Jessica's
SS13 collaboration with VVVintage, named Neon (Greek νέον (neon)
meaning "new one"), sold out at Somerset House and is inspired by
Die Antwoord's "Zef Style" and the wave of neo-trash movement. Her
first womenswear and menswear collection, it focuses on merging
Japanese street style with stripper influences such as Brooke Candy
and even the early to mid 90's rave scene with all the neon colours
and glow sticks that were seen in clubs of the time.
Jessica's parents were originally from Hong Kong, migrating
to Dundee when they were teenagers and Jessica was born in
Edinburgh. She was "there until 11, then moved down to Newcastle,
for another 8 years" and to her "was quite a change growing up in a
small town in her teenage years" in comparison to her time in
Edinburgh. Not that it held her back artistically, she has a love
for illustration and "drew pencil sketches and portraiture for
pocket money." With an A-level in Art and a BTEC from Newcastle
college, where she specialised in ceramics and fashion, it led to,
at 19, a move to London to start fashion studies at Middlesex
University.
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It nearly didn't happen she tells us, as she nearly went down
a more "academic route to study philosophy," but was glad she chose
a fashion path, telling us she owes "her friend thanks for
persuading her to follow her dreams." Graduating in fashion design,
she recalls how "it was a bit unnerving moving to London by myself
with just a suitcase of clothes." Her first night in halls
was an immersive one, there was a DJ in the floor above her and a
party soon had her mixing with a new creative circle of fashion
friends.
Her latest collection used off cuts and end of roll "in
collaboration with VVVintage, who are all about ethics and
sustainability. I had a lot of fabric from previous collections and
SS13 took some time to finalise." We learn it was from a lack of
money, time and other factors but more importantly, she "wanted to
release a collection that she was happy with, preferring to wait
than rush to put it out there." Sourcing of material for her
collection has been wide and varied, mentioning visits to Goldhawk
road, charity shops and fabric given by friends, Soho, Shepherds
Bush, African shops around Dalston, eBay, J.T.Batchelor and even
Leyland for Hinges. Jessica used neon yellow fur, "which is
horrendous. It gets everywhere, the long hairs just disperse like
dandelion spurs bursting out of a pillow. It even followed me to
Berlin where I went a few months ago," she laughs.
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Widely travelled, having been to America, Canada, Asia and
most of Europe; of her time in Berlin, she describes "a great arts
scene. It's like London but with more space. We are all like a pack
of slippery eels on public transport here." Iceland is another
place she would love to visit, we ask whether it was because of
Bjork, one of her idols. " I know, I'm obsessed with Bjork and
always talk about her. Hopefully one day she will takes notice and
wears my designs. I love how she is not in her 20's, in the media,
in mainstream, yet not mainstream. Not a size six typical girl, but
is confident, political, a women who has something to
say."
Often starting with illustrations, the inspiration for
collections "revolve around everything that is current in my life,
people I meet, music I'm listening to, things my friends are
introducing me to, even meaningful images on tumblr." It is amazing
how imagery invades our subconscious and can lead to creative
processes in our minds, which Jessica describes as the "osmosis of
information" and lead to "fevered sketching of designs and
ideas."
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Low points of her career to date have been the "tiredness,
multi-tasking and working all the time." With a full time job as a
store manager, she works on her designs until the late hours. "It's
non stop, balancing friends, family, boyfriend, social life and
'me' time. I'm sure that it is the same for a lot of creatives,
financially it is very difficult." Pushing aside any sense of
dismay, she adds, "however, it can be rewarding to be able to make
something out of nothing." The collaborations with Somerset
House and VVVintage have been welcome positives, as well as making
the new collection and the Schizolog fashion film with Rob
Heppell.
Describing "fashion is freedom," Jessica calls it "a way of
life if you want it to be," but warns "its up to you how high you
want the dial to turn but it’s also important to keep it in check
and don't get into danger by wearing 10metre high heels." She
laughs and pauses while thoughtfully adding that it's "a forever
changing landscape and a very liberating thing when you get to
experiment with what you wear."
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Speaking of designers, "I really like the print explosion,
Kokontozai, Agi & Sam, Roberto Piqueras - I'm really loving
what they're doing at the moment alongside Mary Katranzou who can
make print wearable and fun." People who buy JAU Label are the kind
who want something just a little different, she tells us, not
conformist but also not afraid to mix clothes from the high street
with stand-out pieces. In our brief meeting, she wears H&M
shoes, a Louise McKay Bondage harness, a hat from Urban Outfitters
and a baggy coat with a funky geometric pattern that was a present
from Connie Lim, a student at CSM. An unusual mix, but fitting for
someone with her sense of style, despite what she describes as
being a bit of a "high-street whore," it works in an amalgamated
way.
Jessica's collection has been housed in Japan's TEKNOPOLICE
alongside massive underground labels such as Kokontozai and the
iconic Philip Treacy. Her London based stockists include 123
Bethnal Green road alongside Dr.Noki and William R Green and Shop
172 on Brick Lane. Looking to the future, Jessica tells us she will
look to "experiment with perspex chainmail," following the exposure
of the perspex bags and will also look to use more fur and large
coats perhaps" but as it is still in the design stage, things are
tight-lipped. We look forward to her next collection, hoping
it will be as daring, bright, vibrant and memorable. www.jessica-au.com