Born in Japan, contemporary jeweller Mariko Sumioka displays more
than a nod to her rich cultural background, when viewing her
exquisitely crafted collection. Instantly evocative, Mariko tells
us she "researched very old traditions, how people live with nature
and how they interact with architecture," in finding inspiration,
be it from the "colours in the house and the environment, to the
proportions in a building or the structure of bamboo."
"Humans have always had a relationship with nature," and she is
fascinated by this connection. "I feel awe and respect for natural
and man-made objects which have been there and lived with since
ancient times." The colours are often weathered, preferring natural
tones, drawing influence from 16th and 17th century Japanese
architecture and the principles of Zen. Natural materials and
colours, dark and bright contrasts, linear forms, geometric shapes
and spaces are the core themes behind her work. The tactile element
also cannot be ignored, revelling in the smooth organic texture of
bamboo and the cold rigidity of copper.
Despite a love for art in school, she went down a more academic
route, studying economics in Osaka and oil upstream investment,
hoping to continue with her art as a hobby. After working several
years in the oil industry, her artistic side surfaced and in her
late 20s chose upon a change of career. A course at Akasaka
Jewellery Design School beckoned, followed by Jewellery &
Silversmithing at Edinburgh College of Art. The fascination
with jewellery, she says, comes from the time she used to live in
Brazil, where at a very young age in kindergarten, she found
herself surrounded by school kids wearing bright and colourful
clothing, accessories, rings, earrings, "in Japan, which is very
conservative, it is impossible to see such a similar scene. Even
having your earring pierced was frowned upon, until you were much
older." There is also an image she had, aged five where she was
"sitting at a bench and making jewellery." As it happens, we are
seated in her studio in Cockpit Arts, London, with her in front of
such a jewellers work bench.
Now based in London full time, she visits Japan once a year. "After
university I travelled a lot in Asia for nearly four years, also
visiting several countries in Europe." There is an adventurous
approach to her work and her course at the college in Edinburgh,
"encouraged us to do lots of drawings and develop ideas from them,"
finding her strengths in the collage pieces we see on her website.
"Collaging is similar to making jewellery, there are lots of
elements you are putting together," such as with the enamelling and
paper work. It helped formulate and "break down my original
thoughts into different ideas, and to find new ideas and designs by
abstracting elements."
It is important to "let people find their own connection while
wearing jewellery." Some of the works are easily worn and
recognisable, the earrings and architectural rings for example,
other forms such as the Tea House, however, can be worn and
contoured across the body. There has been a "shift in what we
perceive jewellery to be," Mariko tells us, "the concept of
jewellery is precious, important, like handed down stuff from
families which it used to be," nowadays, in the context of all the
rampant mass consumerism and throwaway culture, "it is changing,
but I still I want people to play around and treat them as special
objects."
The Bamboo pieces and some of the brooches are unique
statement pieces, "not very practical", but there is great use of
different materials used in the construction, metals, some of which
smooth, others more patinated, enamelling, kimono fabric and even
silicone and small pearls in one piece which are juxtaposed against
bamboo. Copper is a favourite metal used in several of the works,
the green oxidised colour and enamelling with simple colours
"enables me to explore my images of natural materials and textures
which can be found in Wabi-sabi aesthetic and Japanese
architecture."
The year ahead will see more of a "focus on the quality of my
jewellery, its uniqueness and narrativity," in addition to making
some more "one-off pieces to entertain viewers," hinting at perhaps
a large scale wall piece. Her work can be viewed at her
website, as well at several worldwide stockists: Charon Kransen
Arts, NYC; Contemporary Applied Arts, London; Gill Wing Jewellery,
London; Hammer Gallery, Hong Kong; Lesley Craze Gallery, London; O
Gallery, Belgium;
Roger Billcliffe Gallery, Glasgow and Ubi Gallery, Beijing,
China
www.marikosumioka.com
Interview and Portraits:
Nardip Singh