As featured in Unfolded Magazine Issue 10
‘Are you dancing yet?’ is the name of the A/W12 collection from
Riyka, a fledgling label based in London, UK and the brainchild of
Rebecca Johnson. Born in the UK, from a young age she has always
had an interest in fashion. That passion led her to graduate with a
fashion degree from Shenkar College of Design in Israel in
2008 and launch Riyka, which designs subtly sophisticated pieces
that are based on simple shapes that can be worn at any time or
place. Contrasting colours, angular shapes and a combination of
diverse fabrics are the signature of the label.
To the background tune of roots reggae and ska music, in a small
but airy studio in Dalston, AW12 was inspired by the gentleman of
Bakongo, a clique of extraordinarily dressed dandies from the
Congo. In the midst of war and poverty these men dress in
three-piece suits, immaculate brogues and it’s this obsession and
love for dress that captures hearts, as does their vibrant peacock
colours." Ska is a form of music that originated in Jamaica
in the late 1950s, and was the precursor to rocksteady and reggae,
combining elements of Caribbean mento and calypso with American
jazz and rhythm and blues.
The use of navy, royal blue, bubblegum pink and purple colours on a
teasing anagram of textures and fabrics such as leather,
denim, cotton and jersey create a striking look that although at
first looks simple, is quite complex in construction. Johnson's
staple wardrobe pieces are a denim skirt and a hoodie, and there is
a rebellious, girlish charm to the pieces, with navy pleated skirts
and zipper sweats adding a youthful irreverence to the overall
look.
Johnson describes fashion as "expressing your identity through what
you wear. That is what most interests me. Something different and
unique." On the sport-luxe trend, the label has been viewed as,
Johnson says "it is not something we purposely sought out to be
identified as. Personally I think clothes should be comfortable, be
wearable. I have much more of a basic approach to fashion but it
still has to have that something extra, an identifier. Shapes and
colours are important." The collections are more innovative than
the usual sport-luxe look, the geometric look is not harsh and
sharp and the design is a minimalistic joy, fun and
whimsical.
Africa features heavily as a source of inspiration and triangles
are a recurrent theme. On the use of triangular shapes, Johnson
says she "Loves the shape. The triangle symbolises perfection or
me, it's about balance. When you mirror the shape, it creates a bit
of a dynamic feeling which connects to the music we listen to." The
signature geometric panelling and mirrored use of the triangle nods
to the African textiles so coveted by the brand.
The collections use a palette of four colours, "There will always
be navy and denim because those are my two favourite things" she
says. From an ethical standpoint Johnson tells us the "All the
denim is reclaimed. All the jersey for A/W is made in the UK.
As we evolve, we are finding new ways to be ethical with our fabric
sourcing. It is not easy, it means you have to work a little hard
to be sustainable. Its part of the challenge really."
Johnson's husband Vedran takes care of most of the financial and
business aspects of the brand. "He did an MA in business, but is
also attracted to the whole ethos of the brand. We balance each
other out," says Johnson and in terms of menswear and a dedicated
line, Johnson notes "we have found that our pieces have been
selling to guys. The growth is organic and we are looking at unisex
options for the label." Currently stocked in their online store and
in 69b, Shop 172, NOT JUST A LABEL and Behave Clothing, the label
caters for "intelligent, expressive and restless souls who like to
be comfortable and are constantly on the move" - so check out the
imagery and videos at
www.riyka.com and get your 'Ska'
and 'Reggae' groove on.
Interview by Nardip Singh